PAINTING ON FABRICS AND GARMENTS
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PAINTING ON FABRICS AND GARMENTS

VEENA K. THIMMAIAH

Painting has been used to embellish garments for several thousands of years. In fact, before printing on fabrics was perfected, dyes were actually daubed on to the fabric, in order to make it interesting. Dyes in huge vats could change the base colour of the fabric, but painting it with myriad colours created interesting surface patterns.

It took several centuries, however, before this technique was perfected. Early painted fabrics were rough and the pigment rubbed off quite easily. Dyes too were fugitive and could not withstand many washes.

India was one of the first countries to successfully print and paint with vegetable and mineral colours. Indian fabrics were in great demand in the ancient world. In fact, much of the knowledge that we have of ancient Indian textiles, comes from fragments surviving in Middle Eastern countries.

Kalamkari is one of the most interesting techniques, used for embellishing fabrics in India. Kalamkari, literally means ‘drawing with a pen’. The artist /artisan uses the kalam, a wooden stick, entwined with a ball of fibre, which acts as a reservoir for the ink ( dye). This is dipped into the dye, which trickles to the tip of the Kalam, and the artist begins to draw the images and motifs, directly on to the fabric. After the entire design is complete, the dye is set by various means. Different colours are obtained from various ingredients.

There are two important centres of Kalamkari production, both in the south of India – Masulipatam and Srikalahasti. The former has designs which have an Islamic quality, in the sense that mostly foliage and organic forms are used. Srikalahasti is more Indian in nature, with various Hindu Gods and Goddesses being depicted.

Kalamkari saris and kurtas are easily available in the market. Bed sheets and bedcovers were being exported to European countries as long back as the 17^th century. It would be innovative to use the technique with modern motifs on present day garments as well. Instead of cutting up the Kalamkari fabric to make a dress, the garment could be cut and then Kalamkari designs could be placed on it.

Madhubani, the folk painting style of Bihar could also be easily transferred to fashion design. These paintings are bright and filled with charming motifs of fish, lotuses and parrots. In addition figures like Ram, Sita and Radha-Krishna abound. These would look great on T-shirts or yokes and sleeves of churidar-kurtas.Warli Art from the outskirts of Mumbai, in Maharashtra is another example of folk art that translates well on fabric. However, it has already been used on garments about ten years back and not very innovatively at that. The point is not in copying the images directly from the original, but in using it in a modernistic manner.

The West also has plenty to offer us in terms of design. The action paintings of Jackson Pollock would look fabulous on a dress. Pollock was an American artist who practically hurled and twisted and tossed cans of paint on the canvas, which was laid on the floor. The tangled webs and coloured skeins of colour created a sense of drama that is quite graffiti like in appearance. Imagine cutting an evening gown or sun dress and painting it like Pollock. However, the garment would have to be assembled after painting, as the pigment seeping through layers would create quite a mess.

There are many such innovative methods of embellished garments. Look at folk, tribal and even traditional art for inspiration and you will find the sky is the limit.

The author can be contacted at

Veenacarol@ahoo.co.in